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How to tell if the squalane in your lipstick came from a shark
The latest data indicates that the global squalene market is likely to double in size from 2020 to 2030, driven in large part by an ever-expanding cosmetics industry.
In case you didnt know, squalene is an oily substance found in shark livers among other places and 60+ species of shark are fished for their liver oil. 26 of these are categorized as Vulnerable to Extinction, according to the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation (RSSF), and their liver oil might be in your lipstick. Symone Barkley, chief learning officer of Black in Marine Science, told The Focus the burden is on the consumer to choose a cosmetics brand that doesnt present a risk to sharks and the ocean.
What is squalene, and why do sharks produce so much of it?
“Squalene is added for its moisturizing properties in skin and hair products, says Symone Barkley.
First, its worth making a distinction between squalene and squalane (with an a ). Squalene (with an e ) is an insoluble, fatty substance our cells produce as a natural moisturizer. Humans produce it most during their teen years. As we get older, we make less. This is one of the reasons our skin gets drier with age.
But squalene isnt only natural in humans. Its naturally present in olives, rice bran, and sugarcane, according to Healthline. And its naturally present in particularly large quantities in shark livers.
When squalene is harvested, whether from a shark or a sugarcane plant, and it becomes exposed to oxygen, it can become rancid and spoil quickly. Therefore, manufacturers hydrogenate it into squalane, which is more stable. This turns it from an unsaturated oil to a saturated oil and makes it skin-friendly. The resulting molecule is highly regarded, writes Axiology Beauty, for its ability to increase the spreadability and absorption of creams and lotions.
While it can be sourced from plants, Symone says, sharks produce a lot more squalene than humans and other sources, which makes harvesting from sharks the most commercially desirable option.
Sharks sink. Unlike many other types of fish, they dont have a swim bladder to make them buoyant. Instead, they have livers filled with large amounts of oil; in some cases, shark livers make up 20% of their body weight. Since oil is less dense than seawater, it keeps them from having to work against their otherwise negative buoyancy.�
The case for avoiding cosmetic products that contain squalane from sharks
The cosmetics industrys hunger for squalene from sharks is driving deepwater sharks into extinction, according to the RSSF.
According to the Bloom Association, about 3 million sharks are captured and killed every year to meet international demand for animal squalane. That was in 2012, meaning the number may be significantly larger by 2024.
In 2008, Unilever (which owns Ponds and Dove) and LOreal agreed to stop using shark-derived squalene in their moisturizing creams and lipsticks, writes Shark Allies. However, six years later, the Bloom Association found that 1 in 5 creams still had traces of purified shark liver oil.
Current labeling laws do not require companies to disclose their use of shark-based squalene, according to Symone Barkley. The burden, therefore, unfortunately falls squarely on the consumer to do research on their cosmetic brand of choice to confirm that they are not a risk to sharks and the ocean.
Look for phrases like 100% plant-derived, vegetable based or vegetable origins, advises the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation.
Shark Allies adds that, if product ingredients arent made plain on the packaging of your cosmetic product, check the brands website. If squalene isnt listed, well, its not going to be in the product. If it is, look for an indicator that its plant-derived. As a last port of call, reach out to customer service” for confirmation on whether or not your brand of choice uses shark-derived squalane in its cosmetics products.
Some brands state explicitly their opposition to using shark liver oil in their products. By opting to shop from a company that takes a hardline stance on the practice of harvesting squalene from deep sea (and other) sharks, you lend your support to ethical business practices.
Symone Barkley works at BIMS. She’s a scientist and educator from Baltimore, with degrees from Hampton University in Maine and Delaware State University. She has studied algae, blue crabs, sand tiger and sandbar sharks.
